Murphy’s law… Yesterday there were more trout than we have seen all winter queued up under the main road bridge waiting for anglers to arrive. Three anglers were fishing the Bridge Pool in miserable conditions. In the short time I watched the angler on the left landed and released a small rainbow and the other in the middle hooked up but lost one. Then today the nasty freezing wind arrives and the conditions for casting are yuk! We don’t care. We will just wait a day or two and catch them at the next pool they stop at up river when it is easier… By then they get hungrier and will attack anything…
So where does Tongariro River Motel direct tourists when adverse weather prevents tramping over the Tongariro Alpine Crossing? Now is the time to plan your next adventure. Due to the unpredictable weather on the central plateau, you need to prepare for plan B as well. Sometimes this turns out to be better than Plan A! With about 70,000 completing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing every year, it is, by far, the biggest tourist generator in this region. Compare that to about 45,000 trout licences sold. It is written up in the tourist guides such as Lonely Planet and Rough Guide as NZ’s best one day tramp.
Yet the reality is that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is only really open for about 5 months each year. During much of the year, even if the weather was fine (like today!), the weather conditions make it totally unsuitable for casual tourists. But TRM and other tourist accommodation still get keen guests who have read up about the Tongariro Crossing and arrive all rarin’ to go, when the Crossing is impassible and closed.
So where does SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) send them? This is Plan B!
Her following programme is recommended for the non-fishing family members and even the odd fisho who needs a day off now and then. TRM constantly receive positive feedback that this three track alternative is even BETTER than the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, avoiding the crowding and without needing to fit in with the bus shuttles. SWMBO suggests you can even sleep in and still manage it… (Mind you, She does that every day!)
So TRM recommend three interesting alternative options which together provide 5 hours of tramping in widely varying environments involving (1) a 1 hour river walk, (2) a 2 hour round-a-lake walk, and (3) a 2 hour alpine hike to a spectacular waterfall over the edge of the lava flow, as follows:
(1) The first alternative to start their day leaves from TRM to walk the one hour loop, guided by Boof, around the Tongariro Rivert. This uses anglers access tracks up the river past famous fishing pools such as Major Jones Pool to watch anglers display their skills (?), then across the “Koura Street” swing bridge, and to return down river over the new track which provides wide elevated views over Turangi and beyond to Lake Taupo. Then SWMBO even allows them a half hour break for morning tea before tackling the second alternative.
(2) The Lake Rotopounamu walk was voted by NZ Herald readers a few years ago as the best kept secret in the North Island.
It is located about 10 minutes from Turangi on SH 47 and involves an easy walk up a hill to a circuit of a hidden Lake through virgin native bush that was never ever milled as it was too difficult to get the timber out of this natural basin. As such the native bush and bird life is exceptional and worthwhile for that alone. The level track around the lake has been upgraded and is easy peasy. After that you continue on SH 47 for another 30 minutes onto SH 48 – Bruce Road up to Whakapapa village on Mt. Ruapehu.
(3) The Taranaki Falls alpine walk leaves from directly behind the Chateau where the alpine track is part of the Tongariro Northern Circuit route to the Tama Lakes.
After one hour a side track leads to the base of the waterfall tumbling over the edge of the lava flow. Then the return leads through the shelter of native bush below the snow line along the banks of a mountain stream back to the Chateau.
There are several options to aid recovery with hot chocolate/coffee/tea at Whakapapa, plus the interesting Visitor Centre, but SWMBO always recommends tourists to then continue up Bruce Road to the base of the Whakapapa skifield.
The chairlift operates throughout the year – you do not have to be a skier – and provide an exhilarating ride up to the skyline cafe at the top.
The views are tremendous. On a fine clear day you will almost see West Island.
If the five hours walking is too tiring then on your way back to TRM you take a short diversion to Tokaanu to soak in a thermal hot pool to speed your recovery.
That is what TRM call a really BIG DAY OUT for grown-ups…
Then, after that we guarantee you will sleep like a baby…
Some wise anglers manage to pace themselves better and spread these trips out for the family over three or four days.
Very smart…
(For more info on tracks and trails for walking, hiking, tramping and biking around Turangi, click on Tongariro Alpine Crossing heading above.)